A Luxury South African Safari at Kwandwe Private Game Reserve
South Africa, a place with rich history and cultural diversity. Also, the place my family happens to be from. But don’t worry, I’m not biased or anything…
Our first trip to South Africa was in 2011. We visited family in Cape Town then flew to the Eastern Cape to a place called Kwandwe Private Game Reserve. Let me just say, we very rarely go anywhere twice, there’s too much of the world to see, but the second we stepped foot in Africa, we knew we’d be back. So, every 3 years since 2011, we have been.
While we love exploring the different African countries, each one so incredibly unique, Kwandwe has kind of been our home base. There are 2 lodges and 3 private villas on the reserve, making for an intimate experience during your entire stay. During our first visit in 2011, we stayed at Uplands Homestead, a charming 3-bedroom restored farmhouse. We brought more family on the following two trips to the reserve, so we stayed at Melton Manor. This slightly more contemporary style house is a bit bigger with 4 bedrooms but just as much character. Oh, and don’t worry if you go in the heat of their summer, both have pools. You have an entire staff, including a butler, chef, house manager, tracker, and ranger. Massages and gym-in-a-bag are available at request. Everything you could ever want is at your fingertips. Fort House is another option for private lodging on the reserve, or you can stay in their lodges like Ecca and Great Fish River. While we have never stayed there, I can assure you will get an experience that is just as unique and tailored. You can check out all of their lodging options here.
making pizzas in the Uplands kitchen in 2011
Days at Kwandwe are filled with game drives, delicious food, and free time to relax, read, work out (maybe?), play a game of Backgammon or football (soccer, duh). On the morning drive, you’ll stop for coffee, hot chocolate (maybe with some Amarula?), and homemade muffins. In the evenings, you can enjoy a gin and tonic with a view of the sun setting over the river and homemade biltong; the boys couldn’t get enough. Wake-up calls are around 7 (a late luxury that doesn’t roll over to the summer months), and you’ll end the day just after sunset.
We have only ever visited South Africa in their winter, around July/August. This time of year, the weather can be a bit back and forth. We’ve experienced chilly, windy rain and warm, dry sunshine. Layers are essentials, as well as raincoats. Kwandwe provides blankets, hot water pads, and rain shawls if the weather decides to take a turn. While it can be a bit unpredictable, I would say we have gotten lucky every time we’ve visited, with MOST days being lovely. It’s very similar to a Southern California winter – brisk mornings and a bit of a chill in the shade, but warm sunshine during the day. Mornings are always chilly, and wind can make it worse. Still, by late morning if the sun is shining, it feels absolutely incredible. When the sun starts to set, be prepared for a bit of chilly ride back. It’s worth it for the sunsets over the river.
Kwandwe is on the Eastern Cape of South Africa. When you picture Africa, you might think of a large, flat, dry savannah. However, the Eastern Cape is somewhat similar to San Diego, with high hills and valleys not far from the coast. If you want to explore more of the Eastern Cape, spend a night or two in Gqeberha, formerly known as Port Elizabeth, for great seafood and surfing. A river runs through the reserve, making for beautiful views and fun jeep rides over bridges and great fishing. Bird watching is also huge here, and there are countless numbers. If bird watching isn’t your thing, ask your guide about the various plant species and take a bite off the “bacon bush.”
Kwandwe is one of the leading reserves in conservation. They have one of the highest guest-to-land ratios in South Africa, which is essential for maintaining the environment and wildlife in the area. They also offer a conservation safari where you can help with rhino conservation during your stay. Visit their website for a whole list of their conservation efforts.
a baby rhino acting tough with his mom there to protect him
Is it starting to sound like an ad? I’m just passionate and could write for days solely about the magic of this place, but let’s get into the ins and outs of the most recent trip, shall we?
My family was coming from Botswana this time, so we took a short plane ride back to Maun then another flight to Joburg. If we were coming straight from the US, we would fly into Capetown or Johannesburg then hop on a short flight to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth). Because of the many flight cancellations from COVID, we had to spend the night in Joburg this time. There’s an Intercontinental right across the street from international arrivals. They even have day rooms (do NOT try to go to the hotel inside the international terminal. It isn’t open). We went to Marble in Joburg and had a wonderful meal overlooking the city.
The next day we hopped on a short flight to Gqerberha (Port Elizabeth), where a driver picked us up and took us to Kwandwé Private Game Reserve. It is about a two-hour drive to Kwandwé. There is an airstrip on the reserve if you choose to fly directly. You can inquire on their website about this. While a two-hour drive isn’t the first thing you want to do after traveling, you’ll get a feel for the Eastern Cape from the car window.
We had finally convinced my aunt, uncle, and cousins to join us, so they flew from LA, meeting us in Gqerberha for the drive. We had raved about Kwandwe for 10 years. I always say it’s one of my favorite places in the whole world. There’s something spiritual about Africa, and Kwandwe encompasses all of it. Our guides have always been warm, welcoming, and knowledgeable; our trackers are top tier, and the rest of the staff make you feel like family right away. They were also extremely accommodating to our family of 12. Especially considering we were staying in two different villas - about 40 minutes from each other by jeep. They prepared some meals and tea time at Melton, and other days we did this at Uplands. Not to mention we have about 14 different dietary requirements between us.
the whole squad!
On our first night, we watched a big male leopard stalk through a ravine. Our other family members, who had never been to Africa before, saw the big 5 within the first two days. Rare! Kwandwe has it all, though. We had incredible game viewing every single day we were there. Even one drive that we were told would be the “scenic” drive, more focused on views of the reserve than animals, we rolled right up to a male lion that had been kicked out of his pride. He roared and roared, looking for his females, and even chased our car down the road a bit.
After spending most of the day searching for the infamous black rhino on another evening drive, we went around a corner to find a feisty one. Our tracker (the poor guy’s first week on the job) was still on the front of the jeep. Typically, when encountering a more dangerous animal, the tracker goes inside. But our guide and tracker handled the encounter incredibly. After giving us a few charges, the rhino ran off, and we zoomed away.
Instances like this aren’t uncommon, and we had quite a few – another night being stuck on the road between two bull elephants, not a place you want to be. And while it definitely brings your cortisol levels up and gets that adrenaline pumping, you are in safe hands. There are electric fences around the lodge perimeter so you can safely walk from room to room (although don’t be surprised if you see a leopard just outside the fence in the early hours of the morning. Do NOT try to approach it like somebody I know…). The trackers and guides go through extensive training and are well equipped to handle these wild animals. And honestly, they’re well equipped to handle a wild family like ours. It’s not always easy.
Because we feel very fortunate to explore a place like this, we try to find ways to give back to the community or support local projects. On Kwandwe’s property is a community center for the staff and local village children. We spent one rainy afternoon touring the school and putting covers on books. If you have some extra time, even just an hour, I highly recommend a visit to the community center while you’re there. If you have even more time, there is a village outside of Kwandwe supported by the Ubunye Foundation. The Foundation has various ongoing projects and would be incredibly grateful to help you set up a visit to volunteer.
From what I have seen and experienced, most African safaris offer luxurious amenities, unforgettable moments, and exceptional service. So you really can’t go wrong. But if you are visiting South Africa and want a feel for a different landscape and wildlife, I cannot recommend Kwandwe enough. It’s just so special. Maybe I’ll see you there in 2024?
Mini FAQ:
What do I bring??
Scroll down for a packing list ;)
I don’t eat *xyz. Will I be able to eat?
Absolutely! Between 12 of us there were so many dietary requirements and restrictions and they were extremely accommodating to each one. One year I forgot to warn them before we arrived that I don’t drink milk and later that afternoon a jug of almond milk arrived from town.
Can I bring my kids?
Again, absolutely! Kwandwe is kid-friendly and has various activities for those young rangers to keep them busy and engaged.
Should I take anti-malaria medicine?
Nope, this is a malaria free zone. No nausea for you!
Do I need any vaccines?
Talk to your local travel vaccination clinic for up-to-date information. We had our routine vaccines such as chicken pox, polio, etc. We were also recommended to get hep A, hep B, and Typhoid. But like I said, talk to your doctor and local clinic before scheduling.
Do I need a visa coming from the US?
Not if you are traveling for less than 90 days. Check with your country’s government website if you are traveling from another country.
What is it like with COVID-19?
Various health and safety precautions are taken at Kwandwe to protect against the pandemic. A negative COVID test is required to enter South Africa (restrictions may vary based on which country you are coming from) and PCR testing is widely available.
How many days do you recommend?
100? Kidding! Although I wish I could stay that long. The first time we visited we spent 4 nights but wanted more. The next trips we spent 6 nights, which is definitely on the upper end. You will get to see a lot in 3-4 nights and your rangers will make sure of it.
South African Safari July/August Packing List:
LAYERS
Earth tone clothing - think tans, greens, taupe, neutrals
Light weight long-sleeved shirts
Tank tops or T-shirts
Sweaters
Fleece or light weight jacket
1-2 warm jackets
Waterproof jacket/windbreaker
Long pants for evenings
Shorts for day time
Change of clothes for evenings (totally optional, you won’t always have time)
Workout clothes (optional)
Thick and lightweight socks
Underwear
Gator (optional - we purchased them from Kwandwe and they were great)
Boots/hiking boots
Sandals to wear around the villa
Sneakers
Swimsuit
Warm pajamas - mornings are chilly you won’t want to get out of bed
Sun hat/baseball cap - extra points for a chin strap
Beanie
Gloves
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Lip balm
Moisturizer
Tooth brush + tooth paste
Face wash
*shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and lotion are provided
Camera + charger/batteries
Binoculars (also available for rent or sale on the reserve)
Zoom lens + extra memory cards
Type C, D, M & N travel adaptors
Negative COVID test (check government website for up-to-date requirements)
PASSPORT
Shop my safari essentials:
