Visiting Botswana's Okavango Delta: An African Oasis
Getting there… days 1-3 (yep, you read that right)
It's not easy getting halfway across the world. And as with everything during the pandemic, you have to be flexible. Every one of our flights got canceled and/or changed on the outbound portion of the trip, throughout Africa, and coming back. Thankfully, we're really good at being on top of it, and we were able to get things figured out.
To enter Botswana, we needed a PCR COVID test no older than 72 hours. MyConciergeMD and Same Day Health in LA and US Specialty Labs in San Diego have been great for getting our results in ASAP. If you travel and need a test, do some research for a reliable center. A helpful tip? Get multiple tests on different days, JUST IN CASE. Some rules in countries can be a bit unclear and you don’t want to travel halfway across the world to find out your test is too old or invalid. Read and reread multiple times.
After getting several quotes from various safari companies, we decided to go straight through &Beyond to plan our trip instead of using a travel agent. My dad has always acted as our agent, and I'm learning to be his assistant (maybe even partner soon, yeah dad? JACA Travel coming September 2022). Botswana was a last-minute addition after our original plans fell through due to restrictions. By using &Beyond directly, we were able to book quickly and still get a decent deal. Usually these trips are booked far in advance, and that’s the way we always do it too, but sometimes you gotta roll with the punches.
To get to Botswana we flew through the Middle East on Qatar Airways, which I would DEFINITELY recommend if you are traveling from LA. This wasn’t our original plan but after a few cancellations and reschedules, we went 15 hours to Doha and then 8 hours to Johannesburg. After an 8 hour layover, we hopped on a flight to Maun, Botswana, where &Beyond met us and got us on our Mack Air bush plane to Sandibe Lodge. THIS is why it's days 1-3 - we left on a Wednesday evening (technically Thursday morning in Africa) and arrived Friday afternoon.
the Mack Air bush planes to hop from Maun and in between camps
If you've traveled to Africa before, you'll know that there are sometimes restrictions on luggage weight and size. The safaris we had done in the past surprisingly didn't have limits, but this one did. If I'm totally honest, no one actually checked the size and weight, but better to be prepared than risk it. My whole family used this bag, cheap and durable, for one-time use. But by the time I went to get it, it was sold out… so I went with this Patagonia. Some of the smaller airlines don't allow wheels, but it beats carrying your duffle if they do. Both bags held more than you would think. I recommend rolling your clothes if you’re tight on space. I also use these packing cubes for normal suitcases. Keep reading for an African safari packing list at the end.
We went in early August and the weather was dry… very dry. Days were warm, most in the 80s Fahrenheit. But as soon as the sun started to set it got chilly, quickly. Layers are essential on any African safari. I would say sunscreen, thick moisturizer, and a really good lip balm are also absolute essentials. Click here for my favorite travel size skin essentials on a safari (or any trip). One tip I have is either bringing moisturizing eye drops or wearing really big sunglasses to keep dust and dryness out of your eyes. Water is provided on every drive & they use reusable glass bottles which we love!
Sandibe Okavango Delta Lodge…
days 3-7
The first place we stayed was Sandibe Okavango Delta Safari Lodge. This is &Beyond's luxury lodge in Botswana. The architecture was stunning, and the service was terrific. The first night we had the whole place to ourselves, making the already intimate atmosphere extra cozy. Elephants and lions roamed through the camp, making for some pretty wild trips back to our room from the dining area in the evenings. If you’re bothered by a little roaring throughout the night, bring ear plugs. The staff at the lodge was kind, welcoming, and engaging. There’s a gym and a spa on the property as well. The food was delicious, and the chef had the biggest smile. They can cater to any dietary needs as well. Breakfast, lunch, tea time, and dinner were all served in the main dining area except for some special occasions where they may or may not set up a meal in the bush… I don’t want to ruin any surprises!
I think it's important to know that you are truly out in the wild here. The views from the bush planes are incredible because once you leave the small city of Maun, there is nothing but the river, trees, and wildlife. Look out for elephants. You can spot them from the plane. There is absolutely no cell service, but the villas all have Wi-Fi. However, there is no Wi-Fi in the main dining area, which is done to encourage families to enjoy their mealtime phone-free.
Even though you may feel like you're in the middle of nowhere, you have access to everything you could need, even if it means taking a few extra steps to get it. My brother had gotten stung by a stingray a few days before we left; it ended up becoming slightly infected. A doctor was flown out to give it a look, and later antibiotics were flown in on a helicopter. This same helicopter was on standby in case he needed to go to the hospital. Knowing this made us feel incredibly safe in case of any emergencies. And after insurance, the price was not as crazy as you would expect. And in case you were wondering, his infection went down within a couple of days. Easy as that.
We were amazed by the wildlife we saw. This was our 5th time in Africa, my favorite place in the world. Last November, we met a travel agent in Rwanda who focuses solely on Africa. She told us her favorite country is Botswana. I can see why. While we're closely rooted in South Africa, and the cleanliness and kindness of Rwanda are unbeatable, Botswana is a true African oasis. Everywhere we turned at Sandibe, we saw an animal. Elephants roamed around like crazy. Hundreds of them. We had hippo viewings at every sundowner (aka a stop for sunset drinks and bites to eat). There were many moments with all types of animals in one space, the kind of view you think of when you picture Africa, scenes straight out of a National Geographic special. Sandibe was magic.
Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp… days 7-10
After 4 nights at Sandibe, we took another quick Mack Air flight (all coordinated through &Beyond) over to Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp. This was utterly different from Sandibe but just as magical. Nxabega is a tented camp, but don't stop reading if you aren't ready to rough it in the Africa bush. By "tented," I mean the walls were a thick canvas, and it was shaped like a traditional tent. BUT this place had everything and anything you could need in terms of amenities. From a unique indoor (and outdoor) shower, a porch with a swinging sofa to fresh coffee delivered to your door in the morning. You’ll see animals wandering through the grass from your porch and enjoy teatime before an evening drive. Wake-up calls are bright and early, but you won't want to miss the sunrise over the plains anyways.
Nxabega is actually closer to the Delta than Sandibe. Although it's not too far from Sandibe, wildlife and some activities are different. Along with daily game drives, we took traditional canoes, called mokoros, through the river. We were surprised one evening with a beautiful food and drink setup and fishing. On our last day, we rode down the Delta at sunset, dodging hippos on our way home. One evening we had a rhino roaming around the camp. He wanted to join our fireside dinner. Our guide, AK, was simply the best. He has been with &Beyond for 12 years and knows more about the land and animals than you can imagine.
We spent 4 nights at Sandibe and 3 nights at Nxabega. We had wanted an extra night at Nxabega, but due to flights it made more sense to leave a day early. This was plenty of time at each location, though we could have spent a week at each. Most people do 2-3 nights at each place, but if you can do at least 3, I think it is well worth it. This gives you a chance to see all the animals on your list and do some different activities.
Our next destination in Africa was South Africa, which requires a COVID test to enter. We were able to quickly set up tests through &Beyond. The tests were flown in on a helicopter and done right there on the jeep out in the bush. We got the results within a few hours. The process was seamless. Traveling during the pandemic has created some obstacles, but it's definitely doable. It just requires a little more planning and coordination.
ending the trip with one final g&t
We had the most wonderful time in Botswana. If it were up to me, we would have stayed for weeks. The amount of wildlife we encountered was unimaginable. I would put the Okavango Delta on a bucket list trip any day. If it's your first time visiting Africa and you want to see A LOT, then I highly recommend Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
a mamma leopard with two twins who just got done sharing a kill (other baby was up in the tree still)
From Botswana, we headed to our tried and true, Kwandwe Private Game Reserve in the Eastern Cape of South Africa. Hop over to my next post for the run-down on South Africa.
Mini FAQ:
Do I need to take malaria medication?
We didn’t because malaria is lower during the dry season and the transmission rate is low in the Delta… HOWEVER, always talk to your local travel clinic to get up-to-date information on this.
Do I need cash?
If you want to buy some souvenirs or snacks in or around the airport, then yes. There is also an option at the end of your stay to tip the staff.
How close do you get to the animals?
Pretty close, but don’t be afraid. The guides are skilled and know exactly what distance is safe for you and the animals.
Do I need any vaccinations?
Again, talk to your local travel clinic for information on this. Routine vaccines are encouraged as well as Yellow Fever if you have recently been in a country with high rates of Yellow Fever.
Do I need a visa traveling from the US?
Not unless you are staying for more than 90 days. Your passport must also be valid for at least 6 more months. If you are traveling from another country outside the US, check your country’s government website.
What if I don’t eat certain things they serve for meals?
Each meal comes with multiple options and &Beyond will ask for any dietary restrictions before you go so don’t worry! They are very accommodating to allergies, sensitivities, and dislikes.
Should I bring bug spray?
You can, but it is also provided at each lodge.
Botswana Safari July/August Packing List:
LAYERS
Earth tones - think tans, greens, taupe, neutrals
Light weight long-sleeved shirts
Tank tops or T-shirts
Sweaters
Fleece or light weight jacket
1-2 warm jackets
Long pants for evenings
Shorts for day time
Change of clothes for evenings (totally optional, you won’t always have time)
Workout clothes (optional)
Boots/hiking boots
Sandals to wear around the lodge
Sneakers
Swimsuit
Warm pajamas - mornings are chilly you won’t want to get out of bed
Sun hat/baseball cap - extra points for a chip strap
Beanie
Gloves
Sunglasses
Thick and lightweight socks
Sunscreen
Lip balm
Moisturizer
Face wash
Tooth brush + tooth paste
Eye drops (also optional)
Camera + charger
Binoculars (optional, some will be provided)
Type G and D travel adaptors
PASSPORT
Credit cards & cash
*shampoo and conditioner were provided by lodges
Shop some of my Africa essentials:
