What You Need to Know for the Ultimate Experience Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda
Hiking with the mountain gorillas is an experience unlike any other. Unless you work in a zoo, then you will probably never be closer to these incredible animals. Add this to your bucket list ASAP. There are options to trek with them in Rwanda, Uganda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. We felt Rwanda made the most sense for us in terms of accessibility and safety.
Getting there
We flew through London to Nairobi, Kenya to stop at Giraffe Manor for a few days. You can see my post on this here. From Nairobi we took a direct flight to Kigali, the capitol of Rwanda. At the time we traveled, Rwanda required a COVID test to enter and another once you arrived. You also had to quarantine in your hotel until you received your negative result. Visit the Rwanda government website for up-to-date restrictions.
We stayed at Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge for our trek which is a member of the Governors’ Camp Collection. Governors’ Camp took care of sorting out our tests and quarantine hotel upon arrival in Rwanda which was a huge help. It can be difficult navigating all these new COVID procedures in a foreign country.
When we arrived we were picked up by staff of The Retreat, the hotel we would be staying at for the next 2 nights before we went up to the mountains. When I read “quarantine hotel” I immediately thought we would be forced into some sort of hospital-style, creepy, empty hotel and maybe go stir crazy from isolation, even though results were meant to be received within 24 hours. However, The Retreat is NOT a creepy, hospital-style hotel; it’s a lovely eco resort with beautiful villas, a pool, a gym and a restaurant. So spending a night and a few hours into the morning wasn’t all that bad. The hotel owners were available and friendly during our stay, even loaning us reusable water bottles for our day out (they are big on being eco-friendly). Thankfully, we got our results by noon so we were clear to go explore Kigali. The Governors Camp had a driver on standby waiting for us.
Kigali
One thing you have to do in Kigali is go to the Genocide Memorial and Museum. This is tough. It’s impactful. It’s heartbreaking. But it gives so much information about the quite recent history of Rwanda and the Rwandan people. People who suffered through the genocide are still alive, people that work at the memorial even. So you can have a first-hand conversation with someone who lived through it. Living history.
Following the memorial we did a driving tour of the city. We saw the shops and stalls, the beautiful home of the president, and countless locals walking around. One thing we noticed right away was how incredibly clean this city was. Every Saturday each person volunteers to clean up. This clearly makes a huge difference. It was so refreshing to see. The people are also extremely kind. Everyone we spoke to was warm, welcoming, and curious.
We had dinner that night at Poivre Noir, a lovely outdoor French restaurant not too far from The Retreat. Soy is supposed to be another popular spot that was recommended to us.
We had an early night to get ready for our trip to Silverback Lodge.
The lodge
Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, along with basically every other lodge/hotel you will stay at when you hike with the gorillas is located in the Virunga highlands of Volcano National Park. It is roughly a 2 hour drive from Kigali along windy mountain roads. But before you complain in your big passenger van with your driver, snacks, and water, take a peek out the window to see local Rwandans walking these roads. Most carrying food or supplies.
After arriving at the lodge we were greeted by a friendly welcoming staff and shown to our private villas. There are 6 cottages, 2 suites, and one family cottage on the property. Although there is a bit of a walk between the cottages, paved pathways make for an easy trip to visit friends or family who might be staying there. There is also 24/7 security on the property. You’re actually just a few miles over the mountain from the Congo. This might be a little intimidating at first, but you are in good hands I promise.
At the lodge is a community dining area and patio. This is where you’ll have all your meals and prepare for the day. Fortunately for us, we were the only ones staying there which means we had the entire property to ourselves. Unfortunately for the lodge, COVID has really made an impact on tourism, which the local villagers rely on. The property at Sabyinyo is incredible. You’ll see a gorgeous view of the volcanos, extensive wildlife, and if you’re lucky you might get a glimpse of the Golden Monkey.
Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge is a community owned lodge, which means the profits go back into the village of Ruhengeri. They support several projects within the small village of Ruhengeri to work towards greater development. I highly recommend asking them for tours or volunteer opportunities for these projects. Our first day there we visited the women’s center in the village where they teach teenage mothers who have been abandoned by their families to sew. Their current project is creating reusable feminine products for women in the village who do not have access to clean products.
The other project supported by Sabyinyo is the rebuilding of the local school. At the time we went they had just finished with the structure, and we got to take a tour and speak to some of the staff. At this time the school is in full swing and doing wonderfully well. I think it’s really important and special to take some time to get to know the culture and the community in a place like this that relies on tourism to survive.
The trek
Day 1
We spent 2 days trekking. The first day our goal was to find a family of gorillas and spend time with these incredible creatures. Each group is assigned a specific gorilla family in the morning. This is done in order to limit the exposure of humans to the animals. Negative COVID tests and surgical masks were also required in order to obtain permission to gorilla trek. Again, procedures may be different now.
You’ll wake up, have a hearty breakfast, then head to the base of Volcanos National Park for a briefing and a chance to meet your guide. From there you’ll head to wherever you are assigned to begin your trek, depending on which family you are assigned to that day. Trek times and difficulty vary based on this. Definitely put your walking shoes on no matter what. You might be hiking for 20 minutes, it might be 3 hours. Better to be prepared.
Just before you reach the gorillas you’ll be briefed, again, on what to do when approaching. I’ll save some time and let your guides, the professionals, be the ones to review this with you. But let me just say don’t be afraid. You might get some butterflies when you hear the grunting and crunching behind the bushes. But these are truly intelligent animals, and the guides are well trained. They actually know how to effectively communicate with the gorillas, and you’ll see it first-hand. They essentially ask the silverback if it’s okay for us to join their pack. It was absolutely incredible.
At one point during our visit with the Agasha gorilla family we had a baby run up between our legs. He was playful and precious. At another point we had the big silverback heading straight towards us, not charging, just minding his own business to get to his family, but we had to give him his way. I can’t even describe the feeling of a massive silverback gorilla brushing against you, so maybe you’ll see for yourself.
Sabyinyo provided us with snack packs and water for our hike, which was much needed after the 2 hour trek up and 2 hours down. After an absolutely incredible trek you’ll head back to the lodge for a proper lunch. Take the rest of the day to enjoy an in-room massage, read a book by the fire, or explore more of the beautiful grounds.
Day 2
Like I mentioned we had planned for 2 days of trekking. One day is typically enough to see the gorillas, the main attraction. But if you want more and if you have any interest in the history of these animals, take another day to hike to the Diane Fossey Grave site. Here, you’ll get to see what’s left of her house as well as her grave site and the graves she made for all of the gorillas during her stay. It’s pretty amazing. You could also (possibly) encounter another gorilla family on your trek.
This trek is a bit long, and very muddy. It had rained the morning we went out and we were up to mid-calf in mud at some points. But that’s all the more fun, right? Sabyinyo, and I would assume most lodges, provide you with leg gaiters to put over your shoes. That being said, make sure you have some sturdy shoes for this. At some points you are creating your own path through the jungle, these aren’t paved trails or stairs. You’re 20 year old hiking boots might lose the sole like my dad’s did (shout out to the creative guides for making a tie out of plants so he could finish the hike) so it might be worth investing in a good pair. And don’t worry about packing muddy boots back in your suitcase. Sabyinyo cleans your shoes and gear the second you return.
To pack
Appropriate clothing for Kigali if spending time, casual is fine
Neutral/earth colored hiking pants
Paths are not cleared so you won’t want shorts
Neutral/earth color hiking shirts
Light long sleeve for first starting trek
Short sleeve or tank underneath
Light jacket if going during colder time
Sun hat
Hiking boots
Hiking socks
Backpack/daypack to bring snacks, water, layers, etc.
Walking sticks (provided by park)
Gloves (totally optional)
Sunglasses
Comfortable clothing to put on back at the lodge
Slides or shoes to put on back at the lodge
Chargers
Adaptors
Camera + memory cards
COVID-19 tests, QR codes, yellow-fever vaccination or anything else required for entry
Passports
Cash/credit cards
FAQ
1. Do I need vaccinations?
Yes, yellow fever vaccination is recommended and required if you are traveling from certain countries. Please check with your local travel vaccination clinic.
2. Do I need a visa coming from the US?
Yes, you must obtain at least a 30-day tourist visa upon arrival in Rwanda. Information can be found here.
3. Do I need to test upon arrival and quarantine?
At the time we went you did, for updated information visit the government website here.
4. What currency do they use?
Franc
5. How do I book a trek with gorillas?
Most likely your accommodation will be able to provide you with specific information on this. A permit is required to enter the park. Information on this can be found here.
6. Do I need to be very fit to trek?
While you may be hiking for several hours, you do not need to be in peak physical shape for these treks. Maybe do some walking or hiking in the months before your trip if you want to feel better prepared, but I would say most people could do this without too much discomfort.
Shop some of my trekking staples:
